My Guardians

Every time I arrive at a new location, I “date” various drivers. We chat about India, education, their families, America, shopping, pollution, etc. and after a day or two I commit to one driver – usually based on their response to my word “no thank you” (if they push after 3 no thank yous, it’s a deal breaker), the connection we have in our conversations, and their ability to keep me alive in the dangerous pursuit of driving in India.

These guardians claim to be my body-guards, my tour guides, my drivers, my bag carriers and ultimately, they become my friends. They are passionate about their rickshaws, often personally painted and adorned with photos or posters on their beliefs. They complain about India’s crowding, pollution and the disparity between the haves and themselves. They prize India’s newfound opportunities and give most of their income to their children’s education – hoping they will be the first generation to complete school. And they always wait for me – through hours of meetings or dinners or shopping, every time I walk out the door, they are there.

My favorite driver was Apu in Msyore. Apu has 2 little boys, a beautiful wife and a huge heart. His vitality and curiosity rivals most five year olds - just being around him makes you feel a little lighter. Above is a photo of him reaching across to play with a little girl next to us – despite the green light ahead and hundreds of horns honking behind.